The Loop

Lake Barrine Walk

Written by Jennifer Rooks

It was a lovely morning after overnight rain, so I threw in the rain jacket just in case. This lake walk was only six kilometres, but I had decided to make a short holiday break out of it and see something of Yungaburra. I stayed at On the Wallaby Lodge in the centre of this unique little village – a quirky little hostel, neat and clean, and very eco-friendly with the choice of affordable dormitories or a single room.

Yungaburra is a small rural village decorated with baskets of coloured flowers and unique little cafés. The village is the largest National Trust village in Queensland with many heritage listed buildings. Why cook when you can stop into the Yungaburra Hotel, a majestic 1910 building that stands in the centre of town. The pub has Federation architecture and historical photographs of the area’s early saw milling days. Cedar and oak are featured throughout the hotel. There are several walking tracks around the village, and you may see a platypus in Peterson’s Creek. Near Yungaburra you might also like to see Lake Tinaroo, and the Avenue of Honour – a war memorial on Tinaburra Drive.

I made an early exit from the village after a quick morning coffee and enjoyed a quiet drive along the Gillies Highway. Not far past the turnoff to Lake Eacham I was quickly parking in the Lake Barrine kiosk car park which provides easy access for people with disabilities. As the morning mist rose from the lake, the view across the rooftop of the Teahouse was breathtaking. The tour boat sat quietly on the shore waiting for its first morning passengers.

Since the early part of the 20th century the Curry family have shared the beauty of this majestic crater with countless thousands of visitors from around the world and across Australia. Lake Barrine is just one hour from Cairns, and close to several small villages on the Tablelands.

Lake Barrine and Lake Eacham are freshwater lakes in the Crater Lakes National Park. These lakes were formed over 17,000 years ago when a volcano erupted leaving a massive crater which over time filled up with rainwater. Lake Barrine is the larger of the two craters. Visitors are welcome to swim in these lakes, but camping and domestic animals are prohibited.

Before I leave for the walk, I spray myself in a personal insect repellent as I know there will be mosquitoes and midges living in the damp conditions, but I completely forgot about leeches. Remember to always carry some salt in your walking backpack to help with these slimy creatures when they land on your legs and arms.

A short way into the rainforest there are pair of beautiful giant Kauri pines surrounded by red cedar and umbrella trees. These trees can be seen from the walkway and there are information signs, so stop, rest, and read.

The walk through World Heritage listed rainforest is well constructed and a mixture of a wooden platform, bitumen surface, and a single file dirt track which is mainly covered in rainforest leaves and berries. Fallen trees lie alongside the path and some are hanging over the walk and will be above your head. Care must be taken with large tree roots criss-crossing the path. Perhaps you will be lucky to see a python curled up in a tree, or stretched out sunning itself along this walk. There are kilometre distance signs, several information boards, and a couple of viewing platforms casting clear views across the reflective blue waters.

At the halfway mark one can rest on wooden seats and view the kiosk on the other side of the lake. Relax and catch your breath. The Ulysses butterflies with their iridescent blue wings flit gracefully through the rainforest, adding vibrant splashes of colour to the green canopy above. In the undergrowth I glimpsed a small musky rat kangaroo darting across the path in front of me – just a quick glimpse of its furry dark form. The shrill call of the Whistling Kite keeps me entertained. Fallen logs are covered in fungi of a variety of shapes and colours.

Beside the lake sitting among the overhanging trees and bushes are a family of ducks who move quickly when they hear me approach. A prehistoric water dragon also sits quietly, hoping that I do not notice him.

Suddenly the walk is finished, and I head towards the kiosk for a coffee and a plate of their famous scones, cream, and rosella jam. I sit on the open-air veranda watching the coloured ducks land gracefully on the water, and the boat preparing for the first cruise of the day. The privately-owned teahouse has ramps and wheelchair accessible toilets. This walk is excellent for families young and old, though it is a little steep in places and not wheelchair accessible beyond the first section. With young children there is plenty to see as you wander along slowly – look above you as well as each side and you will notice an abundance of fauna and flora. You may even see a Southern Cassowary lurking in the forest!

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